When Should The Fireplace Damper Be Closed?

What’s the purpose of a damper in my fireplace? Should it be open, closed or partly open when I build a fire? What do I do if it’s an older fireplace and the damper doesn’t operate correctly? For these answers and more, keep reading.

WHAT IS IT?

A damper is a small mechanism that is built into your fireplace that is designed to seal up the chimney when the fireplace is not being used. This is done to prevent warm, interior air in the house from being pulled into the firebox and up the chimney. Think of the damper as a mini door, that when closed, separates the firebox from the chimney. One way or another, you have paid to heat the air in your home. So, let’s not lose it by leaving the damper open when there is no fire in the fireplace.

If a damper is not opened when a fire is built, smoke will back up quickly and fill the room. Guaranteed! So, you always want to check to make sure the damper is completely open when a new fire is built.

OPEN OR CLOSED?

The best way to check for an open damper is to simply look inside at the top of the firebox. Do this before you get a fire going! If it’s open, you should be able to see up the chimney. If the chimney is offset you might not be able to see all the way up it, but you’ll be able to see at least part way. If the damper is closed, it should be quite obvious because the chimney will not be visible at all.

Some dampers are cast iron and operate on a worm gear mechanism. Some will pivot open and closed by moving a lever forward and backward. Others might slide on a rod or bar. Regardless of how they open and close, make sure the damper is fully open before you light the kindling and get a fire established.

A fireplace damper should always be kept open while the fire is burning. Furthermore, keep the damper open until all the embers are completely out. Smoke and dangerous carbon monoxide can enter the house. Once the ember bed is completely out, close the damper. You may want to wear a heavy leather glove, since the damper could still be quite hot. It will definitely be dirty from soot. By closing the damper, the warm air from your living room is not lost up the chimney.

Every year, WE LOVE FIRE experts get phone calls that go something like this: “Why does my living room cool off so fast and the furnace seems to run more when I get a fire going? Shouldn’t my house stay warmer after a fire? My family room feels drafty.” Odds are, the answer to these questions is that the fire has gone out and the damper was left open. By leaving the damper open, heat is being lost. Essentially, warm air is being pulled through a large hole in your living room ceiling. It’s called the chimney!

DOES MY FIREPLACE OR STOVE HAVE A DAMPER?

Some, but not all, zero clearance, factory-built fireplaces have dampers. All masonry fireplaces should have a damper.

Generally speaking, if your fireplace is designed with gasketed, ceramic glass doors, it will not have a damper. EPA certified fireplaces and stoves are designed to be burned with the doors closed tight. EPA certified fireplaces have primary air controls that will allow a specific volume of air into the firebox for efficient combustion to occur. In essence, the chimney is always “open” and cannot be closed off with a damper. However, the sealed, gasketed doors prevent air leakage and smoke from entering the room.

The primary air control is used to control the burn rate. More air to the fire, means more heat into the room and shorted burn times for the wood. Reducing the amount of combustion air results in longer burn times and less heat.

If you own an older stove or fireplace, perhaps one with bi-fold doors, there should be a damper that can be opened and closed. These are not sealed up or gasketed units. The air control over the burn rate is usually not too precise. And, efficiencies for this type of equipment are not rated, but are very low compared to an EPA certified model.

AIR CONTROL VS. DAMPER

Do not confuse the primary air control with the damper. There are separate and distinct functions for both. The primary air control will control the burn rate. How hot or lively the fire is, and how much heat is produced, is determined by the air control. Remember, the damper opens and closes the chimney flue to create the draft that’s necessary for the smoke to be pulled up and out of the firebox. The air control determines the burn rate.

DAMPERS FOR FREE-STANDING STOVES

Dampers installed in wood stove connector pipes is old, outdated technology. They are not recommended with today’s equipment. Manufacturers design stoves that are easy to operate. Today, we control the amount of air into the stove, not the amount of air out by placing a restriction or damper in the connector pipe!

Heat reclaimers, available from some online sites, are designed for pulling heat out from the black connector pipe of a wood stove. Most hearth dealers would advise against using these devices. They can lead to creosote quickly forming in the chimney because of significant heat being removed from the connector pipe.

WHAT ABOUT GAS LOGS AND THE DAMPER?

Decorative gas logs in fireplaces are very popular today. Does the damper need to be open when using gas logs? It depends on local codes in your area and the type of gas logs installed.

Vented Gas Logs: Since the pilot light runs continuously, a small C-Clamp must be installed to keep the damper slightly ajar. When the logs are burning, you should have the damper fully open.

Unvented Gas Logs: You can operate unvented gas logs with the damper closed. Unvented logs are primarily for decoration since they provide little heat. However, also likely to add considerable moisture to your room. Some unvented equipment may cause odors in the home, too. Because of the moisture and odors, many dealers and manufacturers recommend operating unvented gas logs for only a couple of hours. Before you go the unvented route, be sure to check your local codes. Some areas do not allow them.

HELP! WHAT DO I DO? MINE’S BROKEN!

If the original damper for your fireplace is missing or beyond repair, your WE LOVE FIRE expert will likely recommend a lock top sealing damper. Basically, this type of damper is a spring-loaded cap installed on the top of the chimney. A cable is installed into the firebox. When operated, the cable springs the cap up to open, or down to close up the chimney. These are quite effective at thoroughly sealing up the flue and preventing the loss of warm air when the fireplace is not in use. If yours needs replacing, this is a project that should probably be evaluated by a professional.

Remember that your WE LOVE FIRE dealer is a terrific resource and we’re here to help in any way we can.

LET’S SUMMARIZE

Before you start a wood fire, always fully open the damper. Keep the damper fully open until all the embers are completely burned out. If you have a vented gas log set in your fireplace, turn off the flames before closing the damper as far as the safety C-Clamp allows. The damper can be fully closed if yours is an unvented gas log. Again, be aware of the moisture and odors concerns with unvented equipment.

If there is no fire in your fireplace, it’s good practice to keep the damper closed to prevent air infiltration and heat from being lost up the chimney.

Using a damper is a simple concept. Not using it correctly or forgetting about it can have serious consequences that can put your loved ones and property at risk.

Better to contact your local WE LOVE FIRE expert for your annual fireplace inspection. They can spot any damage and provide recommendations for the safe enjoyment of your fireplace.

Below is a list of fireplace and grill stores that service Central Singapore (SG-01)

We are regularly adding stores to our directory, please check back soon.

For more information, contact your local fireplace and grill store.

14 Responses

  1. PAT
    I have a fireplace that at one time was an electric one we decided to take it out however and doing so we have no damper it is just an open pit oval shaped fireplace and my husband feels we don't need to have a damper. I was always under the assumption you needed to have one for safety reasons and so that you would not have the loss of heat or cold air coming in. And for safety reasons please help with this issue.
    • Dominique Page
      Good morning Pat! Thanks for reaching out. You are correct, a damper is useful to prevent cold air from coming down the chimney when the fireplace is not in use, or lowering the the heat loss going up the chimney. Either way, it prevents air movement. One solution might be the installation of a Chim-a-lator. We have a couple articles that you might find helpful. Fireplace & Chimney Maintenance & Fireplaces & Wind If we have a local We Love Fire Partner, they will be able to help you with the best solution for your home. Dominique
  2. How fireplaces work ? - We Love Fire
    […] a wood-burning fireplace is not particularly difficult. Make sure the damper is fully open. Using dry kindling and a few wads of newspapers, get small pieces of wood actively […]
  3. Karen
    Hi we have a masonry wood burning stove which we use to heat our home in the winter - primary heat source. We use birch and tamarack wood, seasoned and well dried. I open the damper all the way when starting the fire. Once it is burning well and I have good flames I began the process of closing down the damper. I close it about half way and let it burn for about 10 minutes, then I close it so that it is open about 1/4. Then after a few minutes I damp it right down so that my fire burns longer. I close the damper off when we leave the house and during the night but I always make sure the fire is burning well before I do this. I find it confusing when you read always leave the damper fully open while burning - you would sure go through your wood fast and all your heat is going up the chimney. Hopefully I am doing this right?
    • Dominique Page
      Hi Karen, thanks for your comment. The advice to always leave the damper open while burning wood applies to 'open fireplaces', not to stoves like yours. An open fireplace, if the damper is closed, would send all of its smoke back into the house. In your case, for a stove, the door is sealed and the damper controls the airflow and allows to burn slower.
  4. Peggy Dotson
    Our fireplace will night light it downdraft every time we try to start it we clean the chummy out we just don't know what to do it lit fine last yr
    • Dominique Page
      Hi Peggy, thanks for reaching out. The best would be to get the fireplace expert take a look and see what has changed in your chimney. They will make it work for sure. All the best!
      • Anne
        I am preparing to sell my house. I have a fireplace with a gas log and a top-locking damper. Can a clamp be added so the top-locking damper is not totally closed? If so, how (I can't find anything online to explain how.)? If not, what do I need to do to be code compliant? I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there is a simple solution. Thanks for your help!
        • Joseph Bodden
          Anne: thank you for taking time to ask your question about top locking dampers. The clamps for gas logs are designed for the damper in the fireplace, not a top locking damper. Their purpose is to provide a margin of safety so the burned gas can vent to atmosphere in case a person forgets to fully open the damper. We would not endorse adding a clamp to a top sealing damper. The purpose of this type of damper is to seal the chimney and by installing a clamp on it, you're defeating its intended use. If you have a gas log set with a standing pilot light in your wood burning fireplace with a top locking damper, we would recommend you turn off the pilot light when not in use. Granted, this may be a bit inconvenient. Another option may be to upgrade the gas log set. Many newer models today have electronic ignition for the pilot light, so the pilot light is only on when the unit is operating. Your damper would still need to be open when using the log set. Hope this helps and good luck with the sale of your home! Joe
  5. Diane Freeman
    I have a fireplace which is no longer used. We put gas logs in and that is what we use now. In the winter there is a good bit of cold air coming in under and around the gas logs. Please advise how you alleviate this problem. We had considered sealing the top of chimney up, but in reading information this isn’t recommended. What can I do to stop the cold air from coming in. Thank you Diane
    • Joseph Bodden
      Diane, thank you for your time checking out WeLoveFire.com and for your question. Unfortunately, with a gas log set there is not a lot you can do to alleviate the cold air spilling down your chimney, especially a chimney that is on an exterior wall of the house. During the gas log installation, it's very likely that a damper clamp was installed to prevent the damper from being closed all the way. This is safety requirement from gas log manufacturers. The reason for this is if the gas logs are turned on and someone forgets to open the damper, the harmful by-products of combustion will be vented up and out the chimney. The downside of course, is that the damper is always open an inch or two and is never sealed tight. You might consider a gas insert to replace the gas log set. There are several advantages: Inserts operate in the 75% - 80% efficiency range. Gas logs are not rated. In fact, some take more heat from the house than what they contribute to it. Most gas inserts will use between 20,000 and 40,000 BTU's of gas per hour, most gas logs 50,000 to 80,000 BTU's per hour. Inserts use half as much gas with high efficiency's and supply significant heat to your home from the gas that's burned. In other words, more heat from less gas! A gas insert will also solve your cold air problem. Inserts utilize two, 3" flexible aluminum vent pipes that are installed up the chimney. One brings combustion air into the insert, the other vents the combustion by-products, out. As these two pipes are passing through the damper, the damper is permanently disabled or removed. This space is sealed up with a ceramic fiber insulation to prevent cold air from spilling down the chimney. More expensive; yes. Will it add more comfort and value to your home; definitely. An insert is a permanent solution to your cold air issue.
  6. MistyJ
    "The damper in many ZC fireplaces is a simple metal plate that pivots open and pivots closed when a lever is pushed or pulled". We have a Travis Industries ZC Fireplace --can't find a model number on anything. There is a metal lever on top of the unit that has about 8 slots in it. We put it in the middle. Seems like a silly question, but is it "push" to open? I would think being gas, we would never want to close it. Thanks for any info!
    • Joseph Bodden
      Misty: Thank you for taking the time to ask about your Travis Industries fireplace. Not knowing the specific model number, it's difficult to answer your question. But Travis products use a catalytic combustor in their wood burning fireplaces and we can tell you that pulled out, the bypass is open. To close the damper bypass and engage the combustor, push the metal rod in when the fireplace is hot, at approximately 500 degrees F. I'm not sure about your reference to gas. I do not believe Travis Industries wood burning fireplaces have any sort of gas option. There's a "GreenStart Ignitor" option on some units that use superheated air to assist when starting a fire. But, you should definitely check your owner's manual and either call your dealer or Travis Industries directly if you still have other questions. Sure hope this helps!
  7. Charlie
    Hi there, I’m staying at my dad’s for the holidays and trying to figure out his wood burning fireplace insert. It’s a Pacific energy Model Neo 1.6 series A, and it doesn’t mention a damper anywhere in the manual. The internet is happy to tell me that inserts prevent cold drafts from coming down the chimney, but I’d like to understand how it’s able to do this without a damper. My best guess is something to do with the baffle? Would you be able to give me an explanation? Thanks!
    • Joseph Bodden
      Charlie: Thanks for your question. It's a good one! The Pacific Energy Neo 1.6 does not have a damper per se, but a primary air control. Dampers on inserts are used to engage or disengage a catalytic combustor. They do not control cold drafts coming down the chimney. Wood burning inserts are to be burned with the door closed tight. You'll notice a rope gasket around the inside of the door frame. The purpose of this is to prevent air from the room from infiltrating the firebox. The door gasket also helps prevent any air from spilling down the chimney liner when the insert is not in use. With wood burning inserts, this one included, we're controlling the amount of air into the firebox, not the amount of air leaving the firebox. This is all easily done through the primary air control. When it's fully open, lots of heat with shorter burn times. When it's as low as it can be set, longer burn times and less heat. If there's no fire going, it really doesn't matter where the air control is set. The gasketed door is keeping out the cold drafts. If you're still feeling a draft, especially around the surround panels of the insert, it's likely coming from the liner not being insulated correctly as it goes up through the existing fireplace chimney. If that's the case, call in a professional. There's a special ceramic fiber insulation that's used to seal up cold drafts around the liner. And, if you do not have a manual for the insert, go to Pacific Energy's website. They're available online. There are lots of operating and maintenance tips that are always beneficial to review. Hope this helps. Please tell your friends and family about WeLoveFire.com!

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